Thar Shaddin

Not those spears boys, put them away. I'm talking about the real thing: spears, swords, arrows, catapults, clubs...weapons of all shapes and sizes. Anytime they're mentioned in a thread, testosterone starts oozing out of my monitor as the collective male population shows off their knowledge.

So!

I thought it would be fun, interesting and perhaps educational to create a thread just for you. You can do whatever you want in here; post an essay you've written, criticize something, write about history, or just debate about why someone else's favorite weapon is retarded.

Ladies can join in (assuming you know what the hell you're talking about), of course, but don't be scared of the male element overwhelms you. Personally I'm just going to check in, read, and maybe even use this thread as a reference in the future.

PS - you may also discuss fighting styles, and they sort of go hand-and-hand.

Away!

God help us all when Railtus sees this thread...

Julen wrote:God help us all when Railtus sees this thread...

This

Me?

That iiiiiiiiiiiis the poiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiint

Lanya Caliope wrote:That iiiiiiiiiiiis the poiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiint

Hehe...point...spear...point...

...

heheh

I don't think it worked Jen.

WELL, I for one love weapons and dearly wish I had a collection of swords (etc), but I can't afford it. Without actually seeing one/using one in real life, I think I have a pretty decent knowledge, but its only what I've read on the few meager sites that have information. (T_T)

No joke! What a gip...ah well. Eventually someone will post...thanks Ice!!!

Yeah, I got nothin'.

Um... I have two cats. One of them ate my betta fish. Maybe they count as weapons?

Perhaps we could copy and paste some of the combat lessons I PM'd to Julen?

Railtus Anstrun wrote:Perhaps we could copy and paste some of the combat lessons I PM'd to Julen?

Yeah, those are really useful. Would you like me to post them or do you still have copies?

Julen wrote:Yeah, those are really useful. Would you like me to post them or do you still have copies?

I only have the later ones, my sentbox overflowed and I lost them. So how about you post the first few?

Sure!

Long ago, when I first started writing with Railtus, I knew almost nothing about weapons, or armor, or fighting techniques. Fortunately, Railtus not only has an extremely detailed understanding of such things, but he was also willing to take the time to explain them to his clueless writing partner. This is the first of many useful PMs he sent me.

Basics of Armed Combat

Falchion

First of all, a falchion is a back sword, which means it has only one edge. The back/false 'edge' of the sword creates a wedge shape said to increase cutting power. The only reason I can think of for this is that thickness of the wedge makes the blade resonate less with impact.

Another major factor is the weight. All swords are actually very light. A falchion is said to weigh about 2 lbs (most two-handers weight about 6 lbs). Still, weight is important. Typical combat style exploits rather than resists the weight.

Already covered is the X-stroke, chopping diagonally and returning the blade to position by following the motion in the pattern of a toppled figure-8. This allows heavy cuts to be delivered quickly but depends on the pattern and is thus easy to anticipate. A guiding or carrying parry can easily break the rhythm as well, leaving the attacker vulnerable.

Instead, a strike can be followed through at a 360 angle by rolling the shoulder through and bending the elbow, this allows the next strike to come from the same angle as before with no loss of momentum. Good use of this is against shield-bearing foes, concentrating attacks on one side or the other - backhand cuts at the unshielded side demand either weapon parries or turning the shield to defend, which in turn creates an opening because turning the shield exposes the back. Forehand hacking against the shield itself uses impact to force the foe on the defensive. However, this is just as predictable as X-cutting. - Or, this technique can be used for 'broken rhythm' strikes, which means exploiting the predictable nature of using the X and figure-8 by creating a rhythm of attacks for a foe to defend against and suddenly striking differently - hopefully, the foe will still be defending against the established pattern when the new strike comes in. A glaring disadvantage of these strokes is that they keep the arm high and leave the armpit exposed, which is a vulnerable point in nearly any armour.

If cross-slashing, swing in arcs, faintly curving in the air so that the strike connects on a gentle downward curve. A subtle motion which makes the side-cut work with the weight rather than against it.

There are said to be nine strokes. 4 forehand, 4 backhand, and the straight thrust (which does not apply with a falchion). Assuming a shield, the strokes are aimed at the low-edge each side (where the shield is tapering to a point usually), the side edge, the high edge (usually the high corner or the upper curve) and the last two begin on the opposite side an involve whirling the blade around your head to strike on the opposite side (these are the circular cuts I described before). That series gives you a basic idea of targeting, and are used for parries as well as attacks.

There are 3 main parries. None of which are simply moving your weapon in the way. The first is the Block - counterswinging with roughly equal force. This leaves gashes in your blade but stops the attack dead. Second is the Guiding Parry - usually a downwards stroke against the attacking weapon knocking the weapon aside, usually forcing their weapon low and enabling you to cut before they can re-ready their weapon. Third, and hardest is the Carrying Parry - striking at the back of the weapon as it attacks and forcing it to carry too far. This forces their weapon wide and exposes them to attack, as your weapon is already past their guard, either inside or outside and with an opening at their side or back.

Spear/Half-pike

The simplest way to use a spear is with both hands. In one hand, hold the butt end of the spear with an overhand grip: this is your rear hand. Then, with the other hand, grasp the spear about halfway down the shaft from beneath: this is your forward hand. Slope the spear downward slightly (ie have your forward hand lower than your rear hand). Now practise the two types of thrust. First, grip with both hands and push forward. Second, grip with the rear hand and let the pole slide through the forward hand, like a snooker cue.

Broad-head spears also slash, either on a forward stroke or while pulling the spear back (effectively thrust, miss and drawing the blade against them on the way back). Not the most powerful stroke, but often surprising.

Feinting with a spear is not too difficult. As described above, just keep the tip moving and jabbing, and hopefully your opponent will not know quite where or when you intend to make a killing thrust. Another trick is keep the spear head about a foot further back than you can actually reach, so your spear seems that much shorter than it really is. Then, when your opponent thinks he is out of range, you can thrust forward and suprise him.

It is possible to wear a shield with a guige (a long strap round your neck) to cover your forward-hand side. A long shield such as a kite is best for this. The shield will not be significantly manoevrable, since you will have both hands holding the spear, but it may be better than nothing.

The other method for using a spear is to hold it with one hand about halfway down, tucking the butt end under your arm. To check the position of your grip, straighten your arm and ensure the spear remains tucked under your arm. Your other hand can be used to hold another weapon or, more likely, a shield. The ideal combination for this method is a long thrusting spear and a long shield (eg a kite). The major disadvantages of this method are that it is more difficult to aim the spear, and it is much easier for your opponent to knock the spear away.

Counter-spearwork is a process of block-move-strike, based on knocking the blade of the spear away, and holding the block while moving forward to strike. This places the spearman at a disadvantage because the spear is too long for effective use at short range.

If an opponent armed with a shorter weapon gets past your spearpoint and closes with you, there are two basic defences. First, bring the spear back toward you to try to interpose the point between you and your opponent. At the same time, retreat as quickly as possible to keep out of the attacker's range. Another defence is to use the spear as a quarterstaff, which allows you to parry and/or attack with either end.

Most deadly is Pike and Dagger. Keep a dagger on the right hip, ready to be drawn with the rear hand. As the attacker closes, you step forward and attack with the knife at close quarters. This neatly turns the tables on your opponent, since he now finds you inside his defence, rather than vice versa. Draw the dagger in a reverse grip, blade-down so that the crossguard or blade begins at the bottem of your hand. From there, either reach over and drive the point down into the upper body (shoulders, neck, chest) or reach across your opponent's body and use the reverse grip to strike backwards at your foe.

With this, you can reach around the shield of a foe, and grappling you will involve dropping their weapon. With your spear still held in your left hand, press against the weapon of your foe, entangling it while you use your dagger. Push your body against the shield and that should keep them from blocking the dagger.

And here's the second lesson...

Field Tactics

Now for some tactical training. Close-combat requires attention to detail. Small engagements with manageable numbers can allow more use of tactics, because that means fewer variables to consider. In small groups, positions should be obvious.

Standard duty for a squire, battle-aide or footman is supporting combat, rather than directly engaging the enemy the task is to set up advantages and prevent foes from gaining effective positions to attack from.

Flanking - Attacking from the sides, taking advantage of positioning. Flankers can cause extreme damage, as the attacks come from angles difficult to defend against. Effective flanking requires that a foe be fixed in position somehow, unable to simply turn and face the flanker. Typical methods for this are surprise or an opposite flanker so that no matter which way the foe faces he will be flanked by one opponent.

Against individuals, flanking is deadly because it allows free strikes against a foe unable to strike back or even fully parry. Most combatants have an optimal facing (such as a shieldman standing left foot forwards, weapon drawn back and held ready), fighting from another facing causes a disadvantage. A flanked foe is denied his optimal facing, forcing him to react to his attacker rather than take the initiative.

Against units, flanking is even worse. Most close-order formations are designed to reinforce the front ranks, with the presence of the other soldiers limiting the angles of attack, vulnerable angles being covered by other soldiers who defend against incoming attacks. This works well, although the flanks present the vulnerable angles to attack each soldier at once. Reacting to the flanker requires that troops break from their formation, compromising the defence of the unit.

Supporting Pairs - A two person formation requiring a spearman and a main fighter. The spearman stands roughly a spear-length behind the main fighter, keeping position as the fighter moves. The reach of the spear limits the angles of attack against the main fighter, since any attack from the side comes within striking distance of the spearman.

Effectively, attackers attempting to flank the main fighter are themselves flanked by the spearman. A simple sidestep left or right opens a greater angle to attack from, as well as freeing the space behind the main fighter to give ground, avoiding being flanked further. Note that this leaves one side of the main fighter uncovered though, so this should be done sparingly, usually if both flanks of the main fighter are in jeapordy.

Where possible, priority is to kill those moving to the right of the main fighter. This is because blocking the spear creates an opening for the main fighter to use for a swift cut.

Suppression - Pinning a foe into position by engaging them in combat. Attacks are made using full weapon reach where possible, aiming less to score a hit than to force the foe to defend without the risk of full combat. If a foe presses an attack of his own, concentrate on defence and giving ground to avoid harm. Keeping a foe engaged is the goal rather than killing them.

Killing them is left to an ally, because suppression leaves a foe vulnerable to flanking.

Wolf Pack - A more advanced combination of flanking and suppression, relying on attrition to gradually wear a foe down. Brutally effective, although possibly time consuming.

Surround a foe, or merely stand opposite sides of them. They must now face one way or the other. Those in front, parry and dodge, giving ground to avoid harm if need be. Those behind, attack.

If ground is given, the foe is likely to turn to face the attacker behind. In which case, reverse roles. The one now in front defends, and the one now behind attacks.

Keep this up, and sooner or later the foe will go down. Good tactic against trolls.

Funneling - A spear tactic. Narrow the angles of approach, by selecting a doorway, a staircase, or a gap in fortifications. Stay there and stab at the approaching foe. The narrow quarters gives him little room to dodge the spear thrust, and the length of the spear prevents him from effectively fighting back. Therefore, a foe can be kept at bay the other side of the barrier at minimal risk by patience and restraint.

Shock Charge - Rushes at a foe in a closely packed unit, striking together at speed to maximise impact. Depends upon the impact to batter foes back or over, disrupting formations among other things. Most effective against inexperienced troops, using both physical and psychological momentum to take them off-guard.

Ill-suited for light infantry, although partially feasible with spears due to their reach.

Rally/Regroup - Learn this command! Simply gathering allies back to one point. If comrades are seperated in the confusion of battle, the leader will call a rally. If the rally is obeyed, the group will be back together and able to support each other.

Winging - Wings are the edges of a ranks, the side when approaching from the front. Winging is a way to deal with a larger force in formation. Simply move and strike at the wings on the way past, dodging away from the formation to return for another pass. Simply keep the attacks to passes, without engaging.